Burros Sin Mecate en Mexico!

Alright everyone, this is the last blog! We fly home tomorrow, but before we do I have lots to talk about! I guess when we left you we had just gotten to the amazing giant, Mexico City. With all the hype about drug wars, kidnappings, robberies, gangs, zapatistas, corrupt police officers, pickpockets, poverty, pollution, litter, food poisoning, and dog meat, we were surprised to be welcomed into such a safe city of clean streets, delicious food (doggy friendly), beautiful decorations for te celebration of the bicentary anniversary of Mexico's independence, and clear blue skys! The first thing we noticed at the Zocalo (a giant square in the center of town) was the massive flag that flew high and proud above flocks of families blowing bubbles and sending balloon crayons into the sky. On the North end of the Zocalo sat a massive cathedral with a climbable bell tower and a fun roof to explore where we could get a great view of the National Palace and some other impressive govenment buildings that completed the border of the Zocalo. Next to the Cathedral, we explored the minimal remains of Teohitocan, the ancient city that sank into the ancient lake where Mexico city sits today. We got to explore the Templo Mayor, a pyramid with seven layers of pyramid that were built one on top of the other, each more intricate and larger than the ones entombed. Amazingly, the entire central district of Mexico city is built on top of other pyramids that were part of the same complex. The Temple of the sun is directly under the Cathedral, the ball court is under the Flag, and the subway tunnels run directly through all of it. Ooops. One day we had dinner on top of the National Pawn Shop on the Zocalo and had a wonderful meal overlooking everything. Down the street from the Zocalo, and next to the beautiful Alameda plaza (where cops dress up as charros and ride horses) that faces the sinking Museo de Bellasartes, is the Torre Latinoamericana where we took an elevator 44 stories up to get an amazing view of the whole capital. We could see everything from up there! We watched the sunset and then waited for the lights to come on over a cup of noodles. At night, the city contiunes on until the horizon. What stood out the most in the city lights were the 4 main avenues that are where the 4 Aztec avenues once were, and all meet in the Zocalo/the center of the ancient Temple, as they always have.

On the South end of town, an hour away by subway (the easiest subway to use and only 30 pesos, about 30 US cents, to go anywhere in the city), is Xochimilco. There, the last remaining part of the ancient lake has been transormed into a series of canals, bordered by floating gardens where locals grow flowers and sell some amazing Bonzai plants! We hired a colorful private boat for about $40 bucks and floated through the canals. There's other boats on the river that sell you food, have live mariachi bands, and sell little crafts. It was rad... perfect for the day after we went to a Lucha Libre match.

Another cool trip was to Coyocan. To get there, we first walked through the Viveros park where the city has a huge garden! Here they grow lots of trees and plants for reforestation projects and to plant throughout the city. There were creepy little german-shepard colored squirrels that followed you until you spit water on them, then they freakout and run up trees. After a lovely walk, we we went past the beautiful plaza where a statue of Hidalgo stands, and got to the antojito (translates-ish to a food that satisfies a craving) market. We got some sopes, quesedillas, and Coke. Later, we walked throught he neighborhood of Coyocan. A beautiful rich part of town where all the buildings are colorful and there are lots of flower garden parks. For dinner we headed to the pozole market in Garibaldi, where we treated ourselves to some Jalisco-style pozole (we both agreed that we liked red pozole a lot better). We did a quick run-though through the plaza, which we returned to at night for endless mariachi music and dancing as was recomended. I also tipped a guy to let me borrow his guitar, the restaurant staff and the guitar owner enjoyed my english music as much as we had enjoyed the mariachis.

On a different day, we headed to the Bosque de Chapultec, a hige park that has museums, a small lake, the best street food, a castle and the list goes on. There we went to the Zoo (yes a zoo in the middle of this huge city), which was cool because we didn't have to pay. Then we headed to the Anthopology muesem which is this huge two story complex with Mariachi bands playing in the middle. If there is one museum we would recoment people to go to it's definitely this one. There were so many different artifacs from all over Mexico including the original Aztec Calendar. Outside of the muesem Papantla flyers swung upsidedown from a giant pole, slowly descending on the ropes tied to their waist, while playing flutes and drums. The flyers represented different flying animals like eagles and vultures. So impressive!

We also went to Teotihuacan, the huge ancient Aztec city built by the Mexicas without modern tools or the wheel, where the complex of the Sun and the Moon are. These two pryamids were crazy big and were surrounded by many smaller ones as well as a huge auditorium/plaza and even a few sacrifice stones. The ruins ad their art were truely incredible. It was amazing to see this site with the pyramids standing so high even though it is all built over a lake! We climbed both of the massive pyramids and enjoyed the cool breeze from the top. We later found out from Kim's aunt that there was a tunnel recently found undr the pyramid of the moon, wherearchaeologists think lies the story of all of the Aztec leaders and their Empire. When were were done exploring the Aztec site it was fun running throught the annoying artisin vendors like we were being hunted.

After we had about enough of Mexico City (although we probably could have stayed there another week without getting bored) we headed to Kim's grandparent's house in Santiaguillo. They were so nice and so accomidatin gdespite us only having two days to visit. We were first greeted by her grandma and little cousin who were both so excited to see us. I was even given the nickname Mikesey in the first few minutes. We later saw her (also very excited) grandpa, aunt, uncles, and another cousin. The next day it was time to explore. After meeting Kim's great grandma and great aunt in their home set in the middle of a garden, and getting tons of love from their german shedhard, we walked trough the garden by the church. We then visited the corn and sorgo fields, and met the cattle. From outside of town we got to see the beautiful landscapes where Kim's dad grew up. That afternoon we drove into town to have a wonderful dinner with Kim's grandparents at an hacienda-style restaurant. We ended the evening strolling through the park and plaza, and both Kim and I drove for the first time in 3 months. On day two we met even more animals, including a baby horse that was only a month old and had a sibling on the way! Afterwards, we took a walk to the lake where we dangled our feet over the damn as Kim used to do as a little girl as we watched horse cross from one side to the other and our presence kept the dogs from crossing more than half way. We quickly headed back to the house and made a quick trip on te bus into town. On our return we ate some yummy chiles rellenos tha Kim helped her grandparents make. Kim and I later headed back to the lake to watch the sun set over the green hills. We were back before dark and ready for the next yummy treat. For our last dinner we had enchiladas (no as good as Kim's mom's) at Kim's aunts house where we were also warmly welcomed. We ended our last night after many laughs and bonding and were walked to our rooms with warm good-byes. What a great relaxing break before the last leg of our trip. And since we didn't have enough time to go horse back riding we were invited to go back in January for the big, town festivities.

After that we went to the awesome Guanajato (Kim's favorite!), a colorful little colonial town filled with dancing musicians, cafes, history, a university that looks like a castle, Diego Rivera's house, theatres, museums, alleys, and many colorful parks filled with trees and fountains and of course more deliscious street food. We walked around all day enjoying all of the main sights. First, we took an inclined train with panaramic windows up to the top of a mountain so we could get a nice view of the whole city next to the statue of El Pipila, the man responsible for Mexico's first Independence victory which took place in Guanajuato! While looking down on the city we realized that along with not having any streetlights, this very developed city lacked mainstreets; it was instead a community where everyone got around on pedestrian alleys and intertwined, small one way streets that lead to te underground tunnels. We eventually walked down the many steps back to the charming and lively city and took a bus to El Cerro del Cubilete to the Jesus. We got a great view from here as well. We could see the city, a few neighboring cities, and a big lake that we with ed we could have jumped into. That afternoon we visited the mine where El Pipila worked in his day, and were minners still bring out gold and silver today. We couldn't leave without seeing two more important sights. The mummy museum was the first of day two, the creepiest museum ever. They had bodies that had been preserved in lime so well that they still had skin, hair, their junk, and facial expressions. So gross. Mexican people apparently hae an obsession with death, and after seeing this museum I woud say that at least in this town they probably do! After this visit was over we headed over to El Callejon del Beso. This alley is a very narrow alley where two balconies across from each other almost touch. Back in the beginning of the city a girl from a well to do family who lived one side fell in love with a miner who rented a room across the way. Because their love was forbidden, they would secretely kis each other from their balconies. Their love had a trajic end, but the balconies and their story became famous. After standing in the balcony we were told that we had to give each other a kiss on the third step for 15 years of good luck! I guess we'll have to be back in 15 years for another kiss... and maybe a vacation home! the city was beautiful and hopefully next time we can catch the Cervantino festival, an huge international performing arts festival held every year that we missed by only a few days.

After Guanajato we headed to Guadalajara to hang out for a few days before our flight home. Guadalajara is a nasty ugly city with tons of whores, crack heads, and slutty guys. We left the next afternoon for Tequila! On the way, we saw one of the most incredible sunsets (Just another Tequila Senset?). What an awesome town... colorful, clean, lively, small. We took a little train car to several Tequilla factories, agav fields, and the olderst tequia destilery, a small hacienda that uses natural bacteria, natural spring water from a river flowwing behind the property and adobe ovens for the agave plants. They also took us aound town as the explained the process on making tequila and the legend of how it started. A the end of the trip the let you sample way too many types of tequila for you to remember what they tasted like... or where your house is. I guess some things are best left unsaid.

Well, I guess that's it! We'll be flying home tomorrow after such an amazing trip! It's been scary, long, and never ending at times, but most of all it was the trip of a lifetime. I'm sure all you family members can't wait 'til we go on our next one! See you soon!!!! And Congratulations from both of us to Kim's tio and madrina, and Daniela for their new family member on the way!